“I’m sorry I led you into temptation,” simpers Mimi (our Adele look-a-like waitress, with a Manchester accent) as she lays down the cutlery for Ricotta Fritters ($14.50). Dotted with chocolate chips and drizzled with warm apple blossom honey, they’re the crowning glory on a wonderfully unexpected pub meal in a venue that makes you feel like part of the family. There’s a real chef in the kitchen – my first clue was the super-fine eschallot vinaigrette dice accompanying freshly shucked Pambula Oysters ($3.50/each). Daniel Mulligan, who recently jumped ship from Pilu at Freshwater, aces both seafood and Italianate flavours, from Black Cobia Fillet with Cloudy Bay Clams, Artichoke and Chicory ($30) to silky Kipfler Potato Gnocchi with Pork and Fennel Ragu ($24). The wine list offers up prices that suit a midweek tipple – like the 2011 Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache ($36) – but Nick Davies’ craft beer list is where the real magic is at. From bottled beers, like the pretty To Øl Eurodancer ($12/330ml), to 20 on-tap options (with the chance to taste before you commit) it’ll keep you occupied for hours. Try them restaurant-style with a clever plate of Seared Scallops, Pea Puree, Quail Egg, Pancetta and Pilu Bottarga ($21), or pull up a pew in the friendly front bar.

The Welcome Hotel
91 Evans Street, Rozelle
Ph: (02) 9810 1323 thewelcomehotel.com
Modern Australian, Seafood, Pub Bistro $$$$