Omerta
Image: Urbane gentlemen in well-cut earthy shades lean earnestly across the hefty marble communal table, deep in conversation with slim women.
Urbane gentlemen in well-cut earthy shades lean earnestly across the hefty marble communal table, deep in conversation with slim women. The chunky exposed beams, polished concrete floor and stone dividers make the space feel substantial; fooling you into thinking it’s been here for a while. It’s the kind of setting that makes you yearn to muse over wine, if you don’t mind a bit of a racket. The early popularity is warranted though, the food is great. Chef Eugenio Abruzzo’s (A Tavola) smaller sharing plates, including a fine Chicken Liver Pate with Rabbit Rillettes ($16), stand out above straightforward mains like Angus Rump ($21) ‘tagliata’ for the trim Darlo crowd. Grilled Eggplant ($15) on a cheeky bed of Scamorza warrants being on every order. The produce is a highlight in springy Rocket, Grape and Parmesan Salad ($12) and beautifully cooked (almost mushy) peas with Cottechino Sausage ($17). Glen Davis’s wine selections are interesting and eschew trends. I was most taken with the 2007 Alasia Moscato D’Asti ($10/glass, $45/bottle); a perfect match to the ripe Strawberries and Marsala ($15). The Bombolini with Italian Hot Chocolate ($15) lay down a challenge to the churros set – shape up! Our waiter Jonas managed to inject warmth despite the crowd.
Omerta
235 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9360 1011 www.omerta.com.au
Italian $$$-$$$$
