Niji Sushi Bar

Sticking the surprise back into suburban dining, this spot boasts an all-star cast, including Head Chef Kohji Matsuda (ex-Toko and Sake) and master of the organic wood-rich fit out, Koichi Takada (who worked on Ocean Room). It wouldn’t look out of place in Surry Hills – except it’s in Kingsford, with prices (and parking) to match. Another Toko graduate, Bar Manager Binod Shrestha, delivers an interesting list of light, cuisine-appropriate cocktails. Standouts are an affable Tall Yuzu ($12) featuring aloe vera, yuzu juice and Beefeater gin; and Shochu Delight ($11) – basically your Japanese Cosmo. Maguro Taru Taru ($10.50) is presented like a pun on steak tartare – piling rich, red tuna on avocado, garnished with black caviar, chilli paste, lotus chips and barley miso dressing.  Eating it is exciting. The left field addition of lemon oil also elevates Kingfish Carpaccio ($11) with ponzu sauce, herbs and sea salt. A stickler for sensational sashimi, I rate the five fishes, scallops and cuttlefish, generously presented on ice in the Sashimi Twenty One ($29.80). The vivacious and engaged floor team guide me to wrap my meal with 9+ Wagyu Beef ($18.50) from the robata grill. It’s a treat against the signature Amayaki sauce (my guess: soy, sake, sesame seeds, ginger and chilli powder). Future suburban gem…

Niji Sushi Bar
333 Anzac Parade, Kingsford
Ph: (02) 8068 4849 www.nijisushi.com.au
Japanese $$