Veda
Sanjeev Kapoor brings his considerable hotel industry experience to a new Indian entry on the Bronte Road dining strip. His restaurant, named after the oldest scriptures of Hinduism, represents authentic Western belt Indian cuisine made with good Australian produce. The idea works best in a vibrant Galouti Kebab ($16) that allows the flavour of quality minced lamb to shine before mace and cloves hit your back palate – add lemon and it’s even better. Seasonally appropriate dishes like the nicely presented Delhi Ki Chaat ($10) of hollowed and stuffed Désirée potatoes help stimulate your appetite. As for mains, Jai Murghi Do Pyaza ($18) stands out for the good quality hunks of duck within the mild garam masala gravy; ditto for the tasty baby goat in the Bakra Kashmir Se ($20) cooked in saffron, yoghurt and gently flavoured with Kashmiri chillies. As the curries were both mild, Cucumber Raita ($3) sat largely untouched, but the Nectarine Chutney ($5) made daily in-house was devoured with enthusiasm. You also need to include a generous side of Baingan Ki Bhurani ($8) – the creamy baby eggplants are lovely. While you can BYO, the wine list has items of interest and low mark-ups, like a Jim Barry Watervale Riesling ($32).
Veda
85 Bronte Road, Bondi Junction
Ph: (02) 9389 9950 www.veda.net.au
Indian $$