“I’m sorry I led you into temptation,” simpers Mimi (our Adele look-a-like waitress, with a Manchester accent) as she lays down the cutlery for Ricotta Fritters ($14.50). Dotted with chocolate chips and drizzled with warm apple blossom honey, they’re the crowning glory on a wonderfully unexpected pub meal in a venue that makes you feel like part of the family. There’s a real chef in the kitchen – my first clue was the super-fine eschallot vinaigrette dice accompanying freshly shucked Pambula Oysters ($3.50/each). Daniel Mulligan, who recently jumped ship from Pilu at Freshwater, aces both seafood and Italianate flavours, from Black Cobia Fillet with Cloudy Bay Clams, Artichoke and Chicory ($30) to silky Kipfler Potato Gnocchi with Pork and Fennel Ragu ($24). The wine list offers up prices that suit a midweek tipple – like the 2011 Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache ($36) – but Nick Davies’ craft beer list is where the real magic is at. From bottled beers, like the pretty To Øl Eurodancer ($12/330ml), to 20 on-tap options (with the chance to taste before you commit) it’ll keep you occupied for hours. Try them restaurant-style with a clever plate of Seared Scallops, Pea Puree, Quail Egg, Pancetta and Pilu Bottarga ($21), or pull up a pew in the friendly front bar.

The Welcome Hotel
91 Evans Street, Rozelle
Ph: (02) 9810 1323 thewelcomehotel.com
Modern Australian, Seafood, Pub Bistro $$$$

One of Sydney’s most elegant restaurants, Monopole, is set to close its doors on September 6 after 13 years of service.

Known for their ability to blend classic technique with contemporary flavour, the restaurant resides in the heart of Sydney’s CBD, blending French wine culture with warm and refined dining.

The restaurant’s co-owner Brent Savage claims that the closure is result of the end of lease closure, but as the slow winter trade to continued to impact restaurants within the CBD, many factors contributing to the closure.

Savage said, “Monopole had been searching for new operators”, and is unsure about the restaurant’s future direction, but has considered all options.

New venture in CBD for Bentley

Located in Potts Point for over 8 years, the restaurants arrived in the CBD in 2020, shifting from a wine bar to an elegant French venue last year.

As one of the most expansive and successful restaurants operating within Sydney, the Bentley restaurant group announced that they will be opening in Sydney’s CBD with King Clarence and Eleven Barrack with another new venue – Watermans – to open in spring at Barangaroo.

Former owner of Barzaari in Marrickville, Darryl Martin, will headline the Watermans Kitchen.

Savage says that some of the dishes they are incorporating into their new menu include warm hummus with green zhoug; pickled watermelon and raw tuna salad with sumac; whole roasted John Dory with chermoula; and pomegranate slow cooked lamb shoulder with picked radishes and black lime.

The new menu will find its way to the 120-seat restaurant at the Barangaroo precinct, where Bentley crew have previously operated the now closed Cirrus Dining.

In a joint statement by business partners Nick Hildebrandt and Brent Savage said, “Monopole was a ground breaking wine bar when we opened it and has always pushed the envelope, holding two hats for 10 years and winning multiple awards for its wine lists.”

The restaurant group isn’t distancing themselves from a return of Monopole.

“If it’s the right site, never say never,” Savage said.

The restaurant will depart on Saturday, December 6, but spring welcomes the businesses operator’s new venue.