Otto Ristorante

Dessert Eat & Drink Italian Wine

Jackie McMillan
November 18, 2015

“John Laws had lunch at Otto today,” my UberX driver informs me when he sees my destination. I’m apparently his second trip to this famous waterfront spot – operated by The Fink Group, who also have Quay, The Bridge Room and Firedoor in their stable. With its reputation preceding it, I was surprised to find an accessible menu of every-day food, starting with vibrantly green asparagus, broad beans and peas hiding Buffalo Ricotta ($27). Pastas, including an artful tangle of Spaghettini ($29/$39), chilli and bottarga, heavily studded with hand-picked blue swimmer crab, are menu highlights, and available as either entrée or main. In Head Chef Richard Ptacnik’s hands, proteins are well handled though pricy. Dentice ($47): crisp-skinned, line-caught pink snapper arrives on a healthy bed of globe artichokes, celery, muscatels and pine nuts, lifted by crystal ice plants that crush delicately in the mouth. Fesa di Manzo ($43) showcases Riverina Black Angus rump cap against Jerusalem artichoke, mushrooms, and green peppercorn sauce, but still wants for a side (or two). Steered to drink Australian from the extensive, cleverly arranged list, I’m drawn to the ‘inspirational’ 2013 Jamsheed – Warners Vineyard Rousanne ($69). I switch to Italian – 2010 Di Majo Norante – Apianae Moscato del Molise ($13/glass) – to accompany my surprising highlight: ‘fudgey’ Robiola di Capra ($11) goats’ cheese.