Monkey Magic

Monkey Magic
Image: Monkey say: “To some of us, opinions are so precious that we will die for them, again and again.” The bizarre look on my dining companion’s face took me back to the infamous ‘Golden Century pipi incident’. I’d seen that look before. I knew it wasn’t good.

Monkey say: “To some of us, opinions are so precious that we will die for them, again and again.” The bizarre look on my dining companion’s face took me back to the infamous ‘Golden Century pipi incident’. I’d seen that look before. I knew it wasn’t good. Sharp crab shell in the Crab Leaves ($13/3 leaves) equals shaky beginning. Mortified I stare at walls, noting dark, moody, tasteful decor. Noisy room covers muffled curses emanating from across the table. A wasabi-based Ken Watanabe ($16) helps steady my nerves; great cocktail, packs a punch. They had a tough night – newish chef, more patrons than expected, new floor staff. ‘What is it that you don’t like, the raw fish?’ perhaps sounded more harsh than our server intended. With time hiccups will hopefully be honed, but for the price I wanted to fall in love – Japanese fusion is a favourite! Bright points were the Ox Tail Tortellini ($18) with scallops and ox tail wasabi jus – on the money for taste, but pasty in the pasta. Seafood Ceviche Salad ($16) triumphs; shaved fennel is brilliant, fetta less so. Twice Cooked Pork Belly ($32) popped with sweet carrot puree, but Julie Goodwin’s kids might ask: “Where’s the rest of it?

Monkey Magic
3 and 4, 410 Crown Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 9358 4444 www.monkeymagic.com.au
Japanese Fusion  $$$$

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