Low 302

What do they eat in The Black Lodge, Agent Cooper? Head Cheese ($15)! Let’s rock! “I have no idea where this will lead us, but I have a definite feeling it will be a place both wonderful and strange.” Spiralling into Twin Peaks flashbacks in this red-draped room just enhances your late night (2am kitchen) dining experience. Alcohol helps; starting with a Chameleon ($16) throw-down of smoky mezcal, all-spice dram, lime and ginger beer. By the time our porcine head parts arrive, we’ve progressed to beer. A sweet, toffee Yo-Ho Yona Yona Ale ($9) suits the flavoursome pig, presented rather discretely as slices of terrine on a board bearing pickles and crusty bread rolls. An oozing wheel of Tomino cheese crowning mushroom fricassee – the Low Petite Fondue ($13) – hits you straight in the pleasure centre. The music grinds down a notch to Lead Belly’s swampy Louisiana blues as our 5-hour Beef Brisket ($18) lands. Sinking into a reverie of tender beef strands and chunky home-style barbeque sauce, I reluctantly raincheck the Chocolate Assiette for Two ($22) to a late-night visit with a girlfriend. I settle for the Chapulin ($17) – basically your adult after-dinner mint with Jameson, white cacao, lemon juice and enough Hellfire Bitters to keep things interesting.

Low 302
302 Crown Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9368 1548 low302.com.au
Bar, Bar Food, Cocktails $$