La Locanda
Panic… the chalkboard menu of this intimate bistro is written entirely in Italian. Breathe… our charming waiter explains it, clearly with great diction, in a voice flavoured by a Southern Italian accent. He checks to see we both understand: “Everything is a sign.” His impressive waiting pedigree includes Buon Ricordo but he prefers the “very personal” edge of this local Italian hero. Our fellow diners are movers and shakers, including Tony Squires one table over. The restaurateur next to us boasts he’s “been twice this week.” Tasting the sensual Gnocchi with Olives and Zucchini Cream ($17/$22) I can see why – instant umami, and the olives don’t dominate the dish. Head Chef (and co-owner) Andrea Vagge hails from Milan. He handles pork particularly well – crunchy topped Pork Belly ($15) has beautifully rendered fat, and is served up simply with Spanish onion and red currant jam. Later, a Pork Cutlet ($28) is also perfectly cooked; set off by a buttery bed of lentils. The signature Pappardelle with Duck and Pea Ragu ($17/$22) is a simple dish, with a top note of roast duck. It lets the 2007 Inama Soave Classico DOC ($54) we’re drinking step to the forefront and it’s very good. I leave smiling…
La Locanda
65B Macpherson Street, Bronte
Ph: (02) 9389 3666 www.lalocanda.com.au
Modern Italian $$$
