Sliding into the (large) hole left by Rambutan, is this izakaya-made-easy. It’s perfectly positioned on the once-Golden Mile for a pre-clubbing protein hit, with a menu that neatly segments starches (in case you’re having trouble squeezing into this summer’s L.B.D.). It even has an enticingly timed happy hour (Friday/Saturday 10pm-11.30pm) where cocktails like the eminently quaffable Rhubabu ($15) – a sake, vodka and rhubarb blend – drop to ten bucks. The Saketini ($15) looks positively healthy but drinks (with sake, gin, spring onion and chilli) like an updated dirty martini. The emphasis here is on accessibility for the less-experienced Japanese diner, so the outstanding Slow Cooked Glazed Wagyu Rib ($35) is presented Western style a la meat’n’three veg. It sings with the unique vanilla note of the 2006 Taipan Cabernet Sauvignon ($10/glass), an exclusive here because it’s a family drop for co-owner James Pollard. Load up with lollipops of Shiitake Mushrooms ($9) and Miso Eggplant ($9). The slightly chewy Green Tea and Dashi Poached Octopus Arm ($12) was tasty, but challenging to pick up with blunt chopsticks. While the stools might not incline you to stay, the standout Green Tea Chawanmushi ($10) with nitrogen-made lemon curd and yoghurt sorbet should definitely delay your descent into the colourful cavalcade that is Oxford Street.
Kaya Sydney
96 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 8354 0057 www.kayasydney.com
Japanese $$
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