Essen Restaurant
At the first sign of chill in the air, I’m ready to declare that schnitzel season is openand wrap myself in a Chicken Jaeger Schnitzel ($21) complete with excellent potato roesti and paprika sprinkled cabbage salad. The crumbing here is great, so don’t feel piggish to also include a serve of Deep Fried Tim Boon Organic Camembert ($10) served with cranberry sauce. Owner/chef Geert Elzinga has picked an excellent cheese, and I murmur thanks over each golden crumbed wedge. Wine is so well priced that you’d be mad not to sink a few; the 2007 Lenz Moser Pinot Gris ($25.50/bottle, $5.50/glass) from Austria is an easy match for the cuisine. For the designated driver, a Schofferhofer Grapefruit ($6.50) light wheat beer with grapefruit juice is refreshing, and perhaps the best flavoured beer I’ve tried. Even if you’re groaning after the hearty mains, stay for dessert – this is where Geert gets to play. His Trio of Custards with Poppy Seed Sponge ($10) gives you three small pots of light, creamy custard and a wedge of cake to explore them; but elegance and pleasure abound in his Strawberries in Jelly with Meringue, Mint and Vanilla Sauce ($10). Both improve with Lindenhof Peppermint Schnapps ($5.50).
Essen Restaurant www.essenrestaurant.com.au
133-135 Broadway, Ultimo
Ph: (02) 9211 3805
Germanic $$-$$$