Café Opera
Image: The most difficult part of your meal here will be deciding between the opulent (and oft-restocked) buffet and Executive Sous Chef Julien Pouteau’s rather spectacular a la carte. Everything else corners like it’s on rails - from the surprisingly stunning room, to the battalion of eager to please staff.

The most difficult part of your meal here will be deciding between the opulent (and oft-restocked) buffet and Executive Sous Chef Julien Pouteau’s rather spectacular a la carte. Everything else corners like it’s on rails – from the surprisingly stunning room, to the battalion of eager to please staff. Needless to say, they do please; and by golly, so will the prices! On this visit I allowed myself to be guided by Julien’s knowing hand. The Binnorie Feta Mousse ($22) took the (possibly tired) combination of beetroot and feta and ran rings around it – acing both presentation and taste. Char Grilled Yamba Prawns ($25) teamed with lime ricotta, sea urchin and fresh horseradish was easily the best sea urchin dish I’ve ever eaten (I’m nearing forty). In an ode to beta-Carotene that had me suspecting a small army of apprentices pureeing and pipetting their fingers to the bone, the Line Caught Barramundi ($32) with puffed wild rice and mussel emulsion was a triumph! It was beaten though by the Tajima Wagyu ($34). The closing Mandarin Mille-feuille ($12) came with honeycomb, meringue, a saffron sorbet that I now dream about (thanks Julien), and a savvy tea sommelier. Your buck here sure buys a lot – even on the epic wine list!

Café Opera
Intercontinental Sydney, 117 Macquarie Street, Circular Quay
Ph: (02) 9253 9396 www.icsydney.com.au/dine-drink/cafe-opera/
Modern French $$$$

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