Bistro Rivage

Dessert Eat & Drink French Modern French Wine

Jackie McMillan
March 27, 2013

“I make the best tart tartin,” says Tom Rutherford. With a culinary pedigree as long as your arm, and a correspondingly excellent Tart Tartin ($14), Tom can rightfully command a willing audience, even in the far flung reaches of Palm Beach. I’d drive back, swimming costume firmly in hand, just for another crack at his Steak Tartare ($18.50) – easily one of Sydney’s best. Tom is an Albert Roux protégé – in fact, for three weeks last year, he and Albert “worked, slept and lived together.” After he returned, “the penny dropped” and this airy blue and white beachside French bistro is the happy lovechild. Rabbit Rillettes with Prunes and Melba Toasts ($18.50) illustrates the perfect French Aussie union, presented with both banana leaf and doily, and complimented by Lillet Rose ($9/glass). Follow it with decadent Pan Seared Scallops on Fennel Tatin ($29.50) – Tom had to get some cream in there somewhere – or the slightly more sensible Pan Fried Sole in Nut Butter and Lemon ($29.50). Parisian style drinks are also on offer – the must-try pretty Rinquinquin de Pêche ($10) suits a rarely seen Baba au Rhum ($14). I advocate drinking with relative abandon, then ensconcing yourself in the sand for a few hours on nearby Palm Beach…