BEST SEAFOOD: THE SMOKEHOUSE

Once you get your head around the idea of a restaurant devoted to smoked fish and give this place a go, you will kick yourself for not coming sooner. The menu is full of sophisticated comfort food, with smoked seafood taking centre stage. Garlic prawns take on a whole new dimension after going through the smoking process, and the cod fritters and sardines on toast are equally satisfying entrée fare. Leave some room for the main course – the Atlantic salmon cutlet on horseradish and green pea mash is to die-for. On a wintery night, you can’t go past the fish pie, and you will want to order the impossibly chunky hand-cut chips. Continue the theme with smoked macadamia and date pudding or go for the cheese board – blue vein and honeycomb is  the most amazing combination. (Dana McCauley)

204 Devonshire St, Surry Hills, 9699 1155. thesmokehouse.com.au