BEST NORTH AFRICAN: Souk in the City

Souk in the City – for those who manage to find it – offers a seductive kasbah of Marrakesh-styled delight. Omar, the proud owner of this traditional French-Moroccan restaurant, greets each table with a typical Berber host greeting. With a sprinkle of rose petals you’ll hear him announce, “Welcome to my homeland, Morocco, land of temptation and surprise.” And when you’re done picking off the petals, you’ll notice that both cocktail and dinner menus have all the delicacies you might expect to find in some Moorish tavern deep in the darkest most sensual parts of an ancient Medina in Fez, or Portuguese-influenced Al Jedida. Expect prunes, mint, saffron and more than a couple of lamb dishes. (Scott Winter)

5/431 Bourke St, Surry Hills. 9357 7577, www.soukinthecity.com