BEST JAPANESE: TOKO

Toko, a small empire of yummy, fancy Japanese restaurants, also boasts one of Sydney’s few sake sommeliers. Another rarity: cold sake on the drinks menu. This unusual delight is enhanced by the modern idea of an izakaya menu, meant to be shared among the happy denizens of a long communal table, where privacy is created through clever lighting and moveable lamps. Bar seating facing different cooking stations – sushi and sizzle – add a sense of performance. The value is good for the sensual variety of tastes. Fancy, good food fun. Kanpai! (Olga Azar)

Toko, 490 Crown Street, Surry Hills. No dinner reservations. 9357-6100, toko.com.au