A notch down from neighbouring La Tratt, but no less committed to excellence, is Montagne. Created in the style of a convivial Parisian bistro, its black and white ceilings, complete with fabric shaded lamp chandeliers, are visually pleasing. In striking contrast to the monochrome, the bar – visible through lush red velvet curtains – is lined with bottles of vividly green Chartreuse. And in true French bistro style, the plat du jour (daily specials) are scrawled across a large, centrally located mirror. While the cocktail list offers up the opportunity to try a few classics, including the French Sidecar ($16) and the French 75 ($16), the drinking highlight is definitely the wine. For a collection of less than thirty bottles, the wine list over-delivers, with all (bar two premium Champagnes) available by glass, and with bottle prices under fifty bucks. Extended descriptions make selecting a breeze, or you can take it from me: the 2011 Cave de Clairmont Crozes Hermitage Blanc ($13/glass) is a lovely drop. Made on Marsanne grapes, it will set off a textbook twice-baked Cheese Soufflé ($14) or extend to a (fractionally sweet) tureen of French Onion Soup ($12) crowned with the requisite Gruyere croutons. Lightly browned Café de Paris butter helps explain why the Steak & Frites ($32) are so popular.
Montagne
Fairfield RSL, 14 Anzac Avenue, Fairfield
Ph: (02) 9727 5000 fairfieldrsl.com.au
French $$$-$$$$
