Capital Grill
Meeting a new chef is a bit like starting a romance, except for most people Head Chef Zac Sykes isn’t new. He started cooking at the tender age of fifteen, and during his last seventeen years in the kitchen, he’s cooked alongside Stephen Hodges, Greg Doyle and Neil Perry. Call me crazy, but I like to go into a new restaurant fresh, no expectations. My evening began with two textbook entrees – a beautifully balanced (and exciting) Kingfish Carpaccio with Pomegranate, Salmon Roe and Watermelon Vinaigrette ($22); and a nicely wintery plate of fat Scallops with Sweet Corn, Trompette Mushrooms and Onions ($22) that reminded me of a good ol’ Aussie barbeque. Zac followed that with the most challenging Bouillabaisse ($36) I’ve ever eaten. I wanted to scream those fat, slippery mussels are raw! But then I tasted them, and just like that first kiss, and they were the best damn mussels I’ve had. Hang in there; he cooks seafood exactly as it’s meant to be cooked. His Scotch Fillet ($49) with sinful onion puree, delicately treated King Brown mushrooms, roasted garlic and red wine jus is even better. He treats June’s Leaves ($7) with verjuice and great respect, in an avant-garde setting with well-constructed wine and cocktail lists. Brad Cox’s Pine and Apple Grilltini ($17) is nuts!
Capital Grill
The Gateway, 1 Macquarie Place, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9247 4445 www.capitalgrill.com.au
Steak/Seafood $$$$