Vicinity Dining
Alexandria: things are different here. Being industrial, six o’clock is a bad time to arrive – not only is parking limited, neighbouring warehouses exhale a high volume of cars driven by those hell-bent on getting home. We walk into something akin to a warehouse party, and fittingly end up in a set of gold thrones on the edge of the dance-come-dining floor. Waiters are plentiful and enthusiastic; perhaps so plentiful they might benefit from an experienced maître d. Regardless, I’m here for the chef. I’ve followed Head Chef Paul Pereira through three restaurants. His luscious Sticky Beef Ribs ($14) boasting puffed rice, potato wafer and Korean ssamjang mayo, suit a Japanese Hitachino White Ale ($12), and stir my memories of Paul’s time at Forbes and Burton. Fish to Share For Two ($22/person) builds upon his experience at Finefish in Neutral Bay. The mussel and clam topped flounder is expertly handled, and the sharing portion makes for a very interactive dining experience. It’s enhanced by great sides – Broccolini with Lemon and Anchovy Breadcrumbs ($10) and Turmeric Cauliflower ($10). Pereira’s food, down to a perfect Lemon Tart ($14), shines through hiccups like bathroom tap placement and ever-present television (including in the bathroom ceiling) – the residents of Alexandria are lucky to land him.
Vicinity Dining
90-96 Bourke Road, Alexandria
Ph: (02) 9002 1333 www.vicinitysydney.com.au
Modern Australian $$$$
