Tokonoma

Sink into an intimate booth in this lush, organic womb with a view. The earthy tones and clever wall of lentils art piece inclined me toward a deep brown Rockin’ Expresso Martini ($19) with salted caramel liqueur and espresso rock candy. With that itch scratched, it was easy to leave myself in the hands of the sake sommelier for an educational exploration of sake matching; the best being the Shirakabegura ($11/60ml) with the robata grilled Scallops with Pickled Apple, and Jalapeno Garlic ($18.80). The neighbouring kitchen at Toko turns out equally good hot and cold offerings, so create your own degustation alternating between standouts like fluffy pillows of Morton Bay Bug Tempura ($22.80) and sensuous morsels of Scampi Nigiri with Foie Gras and Truffle Oil ($16.80). Zingy (and pleasantly bite-sized) Wasabi, Kingfish, Ikura and Coriander Maki Rolls ($12.40) help avoid that awkward moment when half your roll lands in the soy bowl. Even menu stalwarts like the Duck Breast with Sansho Pepper and Pickled Nashi Pear ($28.80) have benefited from the modern Japanese expertise of new chef Regan Porteus; who cut his teeth with Rainer Becker at the hyper-trendy, internationally famous Zuma. Incredibly, Tokonoma’s more stylish dining room avoids its sibling’s no-bookings policy, so line up your own secluded alcove today!

Tokonoma
490 Crown Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9357 6100 www.toko.com.au
Modern Japanese $$$$