Melbourne better watch out, because we’ve dominated the laneway bar, conquered the surreptitious speakeasy, and are rapidly expanding into some epic rooftops. Even better, you can take in all three within a five-minute walk of this new York Street entry. First you need to find it: enter through an otherwise unremarkable office block; ride a boring lift; then pop out onto an urban rooftop full of repurposed materials, graffiti and twinkling candlelight. There are cocktails, but spying the young Head Group Sommelier Sarah Limacher, I throw down a challenge: find me a wine that will suit both lobster and wagyu – the mainstays of this venue’s economical menu. The 2010 Te Mata Gamay Noir ($55) she suggests isn’t half bad! It makes the rich Wagyu Burger ($25) (we’re talking twenty percent back fat, nicely rendered) go down easy, without dominating my Half Lobster ($50). Heeding advice from the charming Group Executive Chef George Diamond, I take my lobster with citrus vinaigrette – the delicacy allows you to fully appreciate the succulent white flesh. While George is proud of the concrete-crisp Onion Rings ($10.50), I prefer the Truffle Fries ($9.50). Kudos to The Keystone Group for finding a way to make their new venues non-formulaic – the latest three are all gems…
The Rook
Level 7, 56-58 York Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9262 2505 therook.com.au
Bar, Bar Food, Cocktails $$$-$$$$
