Image: Danny Russo kicked serious (but lofty) goals at The Beresford; here you can eat food of the same quality at a better price. The room’s a shade monumental, but the tantalising mural of Italian women scoffing spaghetti got me!
Danny Russo kicked serious (but lofty) goals at The Beresford; here you can eat food of the same quality at a better price. The room’s a shade monumental, but the tantalising mural of Italian women scoffing spaghetti got me! Since it’s not on the menu, scratch the itch with a seriously good Lasagna of Jerusalem Artichokes, Spinach, Porcini and Chestnuts ($18). Fat rolls of Eggplant Involtini ($14) gently tickle your palate with smoked Provola, pine nuts, tomato and currants. Simple but tender Calamari Fritti ($17) and White Anchovies ($8) seductively balanced by lemon, both aid your perusal of the inexpensive wine list. It favours Italian wines and Australian producers of Italian varietals, but it’s not intimidating with Mario Tomassi and his engaged floor team hovering nearby. Be courageous and trust their recommendations. The 2007 Farnese Pinot Grigio ($28/bottle) from Ortona was an excellent food wine made seventy kilometres from Mario’s birthplace. His recommended Soft Polenta and Parmesan ($6) slid like Juliet against the dashing Romeo of prosciutto-wrapped Whole Roasted Spatchcock ($27). An aromatic yet hearty bowl of Snapper Fillet with Fennel, Mussel and Chickpea Broth ($26) showed off Head Chef David Magill’s skill, but knocked out any chance of Cannoli ($3.50/each). Next time!
The Italian Kitchen & Bar
Easts Leagues Club, 93 Spring Street, Bondi Junction
Ph: (02) 9386 3217 www.theitaliankitchenandbar.com.au
Italian/Pizza $$-$$$
