Tastevin Bistro & Wine Bar

This new entry to Sydney’s restaurant scene is named after the small, silver cup that Burgundian winemakers used in candle-lit cellars to judge the quality of the wine, so it’s good to see that wine is a focus in this attractive candle-lit dining room and bar. Start in the bar with the Strawberry of Reims ($14) champagne cocktail before moving to the dining room. Alex & Natasha Bourdon are wine enthusiasts and know their well-priced list intimately, so let them guide your exploration. The 2006 Lillian Marsanne Rousanne ($52) from Pemberton, WA they chose for me was truly exceptional. Sydney Rocks ($3/each) impress with dressing of sherry vinegar and eschallots; but are quickly forgotten when the Gnocchi a la Parisienne ($16) arrives. The excellent choux pastry dumplings rest in a white truffle Mornay sauce with sautéed mushrooms. The Veal Pâté-en-Croûte ($15) is tasty, as are the accompanying caper berries and cornichons. Mains of Confit Pork Parmentier ($26) with roasted apple, prune and Armagnac, and the Entrecote de Boeuf ($29) with waffled potato chips and sauce Bordelaise, are satisfying and nicely cooked, but for me it’s all about the wicked gnocchi. Bored with the ubiquitous Gotan Project, I also appreciated the upbeat Les Nubians soundtrack.

Tastevin Bistro & Wine Bar
Level 1, 292 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9356 3429
French $$$