Steel Bar & Grill
Steel is a slick restaurant that’s intriguing to dine in as a result of the clever Michael McCann fit-out. Steel cages, through which lighting is diffused, subdivide the space creating niches. A sprayed concrete ceiling provides an organic element to balance it all out. There are even television screens to enjoy as you wash your hands in the funky silver-tiled bathroom. The cuisine of Executive Chef Damien Heads is produce driven. I enjoyed the oysters shucked to order, particularly the Sydney Rocks ($39/dozen) from Camden Haven. The menu is balanced between live tank seafood and the paddock, with a focus on wood-fire iron bark grilling. Try the Chorizo ($8.90) to enjoy this particularly Australian smoke flavour. It’s also on the grilled bread supplied with the sharing Charcuterie Platter ($28) with lovely Duck Rillettes seasoned with ginger and nutmeg. Linguini with Tasmanian Vongole ($23/$30) saw well-cooked, flavoursome clams perched on underwhelming pasta. Clientele leans towards suits, but you could comfortably bring anyone here, especially those whose palates are challenged by big flavours or chilli ‘ it’s all approachable. The wine list is impressive with reasonable mark-ups and an eye for unusual, like a superb Austrian 2007 Nigl Gruner Veltliner ($62) – my new favourite varietal! Service was not uniform, but Michael Pickering impressed with oyster knowledge and well-versed charm.
Steel Bar & Grill
60 Carrington Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9299 9997
Modern Australian $$$$
