Pyrama
As tighter purse strings put stress on restaurants, along comes one that seems exactly what these tough times demand. You know what I mean – mains below thirty dollars; a well-priced, evolving wine list (put together by Lara Lees from Pilu at Freshwater), good produce (Vic’s Meats) and excellent five star technique without the stuffiness (owner/Chef Jim Larcan’s resume includes Cable’s and the W Hotel). His Beef Fillet Carpaccio ($18) is lovely and wafer thin; the Salt and Pepper Calamari ($17) is so easy to eat it belies being battered and fried. The fresh Egg Tagliatelle ($27) is blown away by the skilful handling of the briny black mussels; and the 400 Day Grain Fed Wagyu Beef Tagliata with potato Lyonnaise, field mushrooms and red wine jus ($34) is so well cooked I’d be hard placed to name a better one in Sydney, if value for money’s a factor. I’m mostly against flavoured crème brulees because you often pay a price in texture – not so with Jim’s original Belgian White Chocolate Crème Brulee ($12). Value shines hardest – have three courses (no surcharges) for $48. The space is surprisingly warm for a modern building. I’ll return for breakfast on the (outdoor) terrace.
Pyrama
Shop 1/ 56 Harris Street, Pyrmont
Ph: (02) 9692 8844
Modern Australian $$$
