Number One? Tony Bilson’s Wine Bar
Before dining here I’d have struggled to select the perfect dish to follow Iberico Jamon ($12), but thanks to head chef Miguel Maestre I now know half a dozen imported French Escargots au Beurre d’Ail ($18) provide the perfect foil. Bilson’s sommelier Francois Lesbroussart matched both dishes with a 2008 Elderton Unwooded Chardonnay ($35/bottle, $7/glass) demonstrating his ability to perform miracles on a shoestring budget. Whilst it might claim to be more Barcelona than Paris, for me this restaurant wins by providing affordable collision cuisine. Make gastronomic magic by pitching the excesses of one cuisine against the other. The Paella a la Maestre ($25) proved to be the tastiest paella I’ve had in Sydney, with plump, succulent mussels to boot. The morcilla-stuffed Pigs Trotter ($28) with scallops and an unmentioned sinful pot of pomme puree was wonderful, but far from ‘simple’ as the talented Miguel espoused without hint of a smile. His final fanfare of Cocido Madrileno ($24), a rich stew with perfectly textured chickpeas, seemed to be a feisty Spanish reply to France’s cassoulet. It was nice to see the personable chef make frequent visits to the dining room, and overhear his passion for Spanish cuisine. If I hadn’t been busy cooing over the texture of his Churros ($16), I’d have batted my eyelashes with the rest of them.
Number One ‘ Tony Bilson’s Wine Bar
1 Alfred Street, Circular Quay
Ph: (02) 8252 9296
Spanish/French $$$
