La Scala on Jersey
Some nights, this job rocks; this was one of them. The primeval pleasure of punching in the knife to extract juicy bone marrow from roast veal Osso ($16) had me wanting to smear myself in mud and chant: “Kill the pig. Cut her throat.” Yes, I’m strange; but the rustic, produce-driven food here really does take you back to earthy roots. From the first bite of Darren Simpson’s Deep Fried Dates ($12 / 4 pieces) to the last spoonful of his Panna Cotta with Grappa Moscato di Nonino ($14), I was in heaven. The excellent Carpaccio Cipriani ($17) is an ode to the original; the colours in it actually resembled the Venetian paintings of Vittore Carpaccio. Pesce ($33), a pair of sand whiting with parsley, lemon zest, dried chilli, sultanas and pine nuts, actually look like fish (how passé); and Scampi Alla Griglia ($39) will have you dripping with parsley, garlic and almond butter, begging for more. Don’t skip his Northern Beaches mate June’s Salad Leaves ($9.50) with fennel, organic tomatoes, mustard and vinegar. Eclectic decor and the staff, lead by Manager/Sommelier David Walters, complete the package by avoiding pretension and keeping the atmosphere fun. David’s excitement over my wine choice, a stunning 2007 Felton Road Vin Gris ($65) from Central Otago, added to my joy.
La Scala on Jersey
Corner Jersey Road & Melrose Lane, Woollahra
Ph: (02) 9357 0815 www.lascalaonjersey.com.au
Italian $$$$
