Hotel Centennial
As I peruse the menu, ABC Radio’s Simon Marnie is tucking into three courses of roast pheasant at a neighbouring table. Catching his eye, he ventures over and, with the assurance of a regular, recommends Fig and Caramelised Onion Flatbread ($19) dotted with goat’s curd and lemon thyme. It’s but one way to try out the glowing wood fire oven, which adds to the homely nature of this refurbished pub. Homely if you live in The Hamptons that is – oozing casual, spacious luxury. The kitchen delivers a similar style of modern comfort food to neighbouring Chiswick, but let me tell you, when Executive Chef Justin North writes: “flavour is the only true hand to guide you”, it’s no glib aphorism. His dishes – from Shank and Shoulder Shepherd’s Pie ($26) to Wood Roasted Lamb Loin ($36) with rich, juniper pickled blueberries, a tangle of pea sprouts and goat’s curd relief – contain flavour in spades. Green harissa sees Broccoli, Flat Beans and Smoked Almonds ($15) pop like fireworks; and golden Royal Blues Roasted in Duck Fat ($9) might even make new Aussie restaurateur Heston Blumenthal smile. Clever steering to a fruity yet dry 2013 Aubuisières Vouvray ‘Cuvee Silex’ Chenin Blanc ($64), and the Chocolate Ale Cake ($14), ensure I’m already plotting when to return for more.
Hotel Centennial
88 Oxford Street, Woollahra
Ph: (02) 9362 3838 hotelcentennial.com.au
Pub Bistro, Modern Australian $$$$
