Despite riding up in the lift with a Leeloo lookalike, bumping into Curtis Stone in the hip QT lobby, then hearing that Luke Mangan frequents the bar for Chardonnay; I found this restaurant surprisingly approachable. Restaurant Manager Marie Gallien explained, that while her striking floor staff do have their hair and makeup done (down to a particular shade of lipstick), it’s frequented by a diverse range of people. A casually dressed woman, relaxing with just a novel and classic Prawn Cocktail ($18) for companionship, proved her point nicely. With the lively sound of the upstairs function space, and the clanks and sizzle from Executive Chef Paul Easson’s open kitchen, you’re unlikely to feel lonely if you pop in for flavoursome Hot Spanner Crab Cakes ($19) or perfectly-handled Darling Downs Black Angus Rib Eye ($48/350g). Ours arrived well-rested and sliced for sharing, with a performative array of condiments on the side. Tartare of Yellowfin Tuna ($18) is marvellously simple, whilst a pair of Whole Roasted Quails ($38) partially deboned, prove indulgent – stuffed with smoked ham, sage, malt, Parmesan and barley bread, then drizzled with quail jus. Sides will be necessary; and so is dessert – so arrive hungry, lest you miss the visibly pink pleasure of a layered verrine of Berry Mousse ($15).

Gowings Bar & Grill
Level 1, 49 Market Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 8262 0062 qtsydney.com.au
Modern Australian $$$$

Sydney chefs and restaurants won big at last night’s Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Of The Year Awards, with local legends taking home some of the most coveted accolades.

The luxury food brand awards are the longest running restaurant awards in the country, with 2025 marking the 45th set of winners, handpicked from industry-leading chefs and restaurant personalities.

“Last night’s Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Awards were a celebration of Tasmania’s exceptional produce and hospitality talent, bringing together three renowned local icons – The Agrarian Kitchen, Fico and Omotenashi – and hosted at the historic Henry Jones Art Hotel,” said Nicky Briger, Head of Luxury at Are Media.

Chefs from across the country cast their votes for ‘Chef of the Year’, with a landslide number of nominations for Nik Hill, chef and co-owner at Sydney’s Porcine restaurant.

It’s been a big year for Hill, who also won the prestigious Bocuse d’Or Australia Golden Knife back in May, sometimes referred to as the Olympics of Cooking.

“To win Chef Of The Year is truly amazing,” he said. “It’s an award I have always dreamed of winning, and to be peer voted means so much more – it’s a real honour. Thank you to Gourmet Traveller and to those who voted for me.”

Meanwhile, Ozge Kalvo, head chef at popular Greek restaurant Olympus Dining in Redfern, was announced as this year’s Best New Talent, in recognition of cooking Gourmet Traveller judges said was “captivating Sydney diners”.

“A huge congratulations to our Head Chef, Ozge Kalvo, on being awarded Best New Talent,” the restaurant’s Instagram page posted on Tuesday morning. “An extraordinary achievement we couldn’t agree with more. A true recognition of her craft, leadership, and the magic she brings to Olympus every day.”

Kalvo thanked Gourmet Traveller and her team at Olympus.

“Receiving this award in my 10th year in Australia is fantastic,” she said.  

Sydney restaurant comes out on top

Nestled away in the Grand National Hotel in Paddington, seafood institution Saint Peter claimed the night’s top honour, winning Restaurant of the Year.

“With a menu that honours the ocean’s bounty, and a commitment to superb service, Saint Peter is a shining example of what it means to be a world-class restaurant,” Briger said.

In a statement on their Instagram, co-owners Julie and Josh Nil and acknowledged the “superhuman” efforts of their “extraordinary” team, and thanked their guests and suppliers.

“In 2003 I got a Gourmet Traveller subscription, and it was that subscription that led me to start an Apprenticeship,” Josh said. “I would cut out snippets of the incredible chefs at the time for posters on my bedroom wall!

“Don’t develop a restaurant just because it looks good on a spreadsheet. If you really believe in it and the people around you believe in it, you will make it work. There is no innovation or creativity without problems. Creativity and innovation is the solution to problems!”