Gastro Park
On my first visit, the cab driver said the name sounded like an illness. When calling for the number to make a (second) reservation, the Directory Assistance telephonist also had a giggle. Regardless, diners that push through to feast upon the sophisticated dishes emerging from Grant King’s gastronomic playground are rewarded in spades. Casually coiffed couples canoodle over King’s spectacular desserts. (I’m telling you this at the beginning, so you keep room at the end). From the tongue-tantalising Textures of Goats Cheese ($18), to a delicate Chocolate Honeycomb and Mandarin Sphere ($20) that oozes when cracked, there’s plenty to keep your spoon crossing the table. Sift through the exciting menu, perhaps starting with a snack you can really wrap your mitts around: Cured Blackmore Short Rib Grissini ($14). Textural Foie Gras ($18) set against beetroot, plum vinegar and red cabbage granita gives sommelier Brendan February an opportunity to introduce an early sweetie – the 2009 Pichot ‘Le Marigny’ Moelluex Vouvray. His “not clichéd” wine matches add an extra dimension to the well-paced Degustation (7 courses with wine $210/head). If you’re anything like me, it’ll just inspire you to return quickly for a whole plate of achingly soft Roast Veal Sweetbreads ($28) buried in a tangle of wild sorrel and turnip – superb!
Gastro Park
5-9 Roslyn Street, Kings Cross
Ph: (02) 8068 1017 gastropark.com.au
Modern Australian $$$$
