Essen Restaurant

Step down from busy Broadway to a cool, sandstone interior decorated with elements of ‘ye olde Austria’ including skis and a cuckoo clock. A curious light-well prevents the room from becoming too cave-like. A split in the Una’s restaurant group sees owner/chef Geert Elzinga distinguish this schnitzel house from the Sydney standard with dishes like a surprisingly sophisticated Braised Oxtail Potato Dumpling ($10) served on a bed of cabbage in a petite, cast iron pot. Mains like Organic Black Pudding, Apple and Potato Strudel ($22.50) served with creamy Riesling sauerkraut and caramelised apple, raise the Germanic fare up a notch; though staples like a massive Pork Knuckle ($24.50) remain for those who prefer. Take a friend and share both; or tackle a schnitzel! One was presented to a neighbouring table with a joyful: ‘I hope you’re hungry!‘ A divine end to a hearty meal (which comes pleasantly free of a hefty price tag) is the Crème de Coeur ($10). It’s a sour cream and ricotta dumpling that is hung for a day, and then served on a forest berry mix. The wine list contains some great imports which are seriously under priced. Best buys are the 2007 Austrian Lenz Moser Pinot Gris ($4.50/glass, $26/bottle) and the 2006 Lenz Moser Blaufraenkisch ($5/glass, $29/bottle).

Essen Restaurant
133-135 Broadway, Ultimo
Ph: (02) 9211 3805
Germanic $$-$$$