Chiado

Sydney’s Portuguese community have already discovered this upmarket newcomer, tucked away on leafy green Kellett Street. The accents, golden skin and eye-catching buff lads sporting masculine tattoos (a description which extends to the staff as well) only add to the experience. To get into the swing of things, I took a Portuguese Lover ($16). It was a gentle combination of white port, lychee and peppermint liqueurs, lemon juice and soda. Suitably mellowed I venture into Portuguese wines and comfort food with a compelling pot of Açorda de Gambas ($18), a silky bread stew with prawns that’s sure to have me racing back again in cold weather. The excitement of eating something totally new continued into Favas com Chouriço ($16), a vivid green collection of perfectly cooked broad beans dotted with intense homemade choriço, then topped with an oozing soft egg. Mains – like Leitão da Bairrada ($35), a warm terrine of suckling pig, or the even better rounds of Rabo de Boi ($26), stewed oxtail gentled by garden vegetables – are presented fine dining style. Portions factor in dessert, and you should eat dessert! The kitchen, headed by Ricardo Ferreira (ex-Uccello) turns out the second best Portuguese Tart ($5) I’ve had in Sydney! Yep, still Sweet Belem by a nose…

Chiado
3 Kellett Street, Kings Cross
Ph: (02) 9357 7706 facebook.com/BocaLocaRestaurant
Portuguese $$$-$$$$