Catalonia

I’ve tried most of Sydney’s Spanish restaurants, so take note when I say owner/chef Brian Villahermosa’s modern Spanish tapas is worth the trip over the bridge. Impressively, he makes his own version of Mojama ($16) or Spanish cured tuna, served with well-pickled cauliflower, walnuts and avocado ‘ try it if you love carpaccio. Tasty La Ionica chicken makes the Chicken Stuffed with Morcilla, Gnocchi and Almonds with Cocoa and Truffle Sauce ($17.50) sing. Fill corners with Zucchini Flowers ($14.50) with goat’s cheese mousse and honey (and a dab of blue cheese) and the Pan con boquerones ($8.50) or bread with marinated fresh anchovies. But save the best – Braised Beef Cheek with Parsnip and Vanilla Bean Puree and Coffee Soil ($17.50) ‘ for last; it’s well cooked, with excellent balance and great use of molecular techniques. Dishes are underpriced ‘ you can take a third person as they split fairly into three. Cocktails show innovation but were quickly forgotten in favour of the hardcore Spanish wine list. The 2006 Castro Martin Albarino ($13/glass, $62/bottle) was amazing but surpassed by my first Argentinean dessert wine, the 2006 Don David Late Harvest Torrontes ($10/glass, $58/bottle) ‘ gob smacked! The Manchego ($16.50) is a fitting end; but the salty almond ice-cream with the rich, bitter Chocolate Tart ($12) was a sublime moment – a dead heat.

Catalonia
Shop 2, 31A Fitzroy Street, Kirribilli
Ph: (02) 9922 4215
Modern Spanish $$$