Nice, lying close to the Italian border on the Mediterranean coast of France has historically had more in common with Italy than France. Which is arguably the raison d’être behind Fratelli Fresh going “Fratelli French” as bartender Sebastian Vicente likes to describe it. Drink’n’Dine wunderkind Michael Delany has had some fun in this unique Circular Quay space with black and white striped awnings and pink neon. Smart diners stay bar-side for the bargain two-course Menu du Bar ($29.50) with a glass of Fratelli wine. I did, and just like the mirrored slogan: je ne regrette rien. The bar stools provide a commanding view of Sydney Harbour – albeit with a little railway action. If you bring someone, you can start by sharing their classic Salade Niçoise as a table-tossed entrée that impresses with freshly seared tuna, making it a cut above Sydney’s usual renditions. Move on to individual mains – perhaps a densely filling Fettuccine with Walnut Pistou, Mushrooms, Ricotta and Goat’s Cheese, or the delicious Fish of the Day (Hapuka) on exemplary gratin with sneaky caramelised onions thrown in. As a shared dessert, the Lemon Doughnut with Passionfruit Caramel is a definite smile-maker. If you need some extra filling, crisp Zucchini Flowers ($2.95/each) go down well with keenly priced French or Australian wines.
Café Nice
2 Phillip Street, Circular Quay
Ph: (02) 8248 9600 fratellifresh.com.au
Bar, Wine, French $$