Blancmange *UPDATED*
Image: I slid back into Blancmange with the familiarity of catching up with an old friend; but change has been stirring in the form of a new young-gun chef. Nathan Brindle just twenty-four, but in this instance, take youth to mean forward thinking. His first round of changes include a tempting set of appetisers...
I slid back into Blancmange with the familiarity of catching up with an old friend; but change has been stirring in the form of a new young-gun chef. Nathan Brindle’s just twenty-four, but in this instance, take youth to mean forward thinking. His first round of changes include a tempting set of appetisers – the standout being airy Blood Pud. with White Bean and Golden Raisin ($4) – and a philosophy of making everything himself, from sourdough to soft cheese. The latter accompanies my first ode to the season, a beautifully presented plate of Mirrool Creek Lamb ($34) with Jerusalem artichoke and a tumble of smashed peas. It’s dabbed gently with preserved lemon puree, a cleverly piquant counter to both the richness and cheese. Since we’re already indulging, order his Chestnut Raviolo with Egg and Mushroom ($20) – it’s worth it just to see it split, oozing egg yolk and mascarpone cheese. If bikinis do beckon, lock lips on his loin of Swordfish ($34) uniquely complemented with fennel and bacon jam. While the food’s definitely tightened into what I’d say is Blancmange’s best, the plates are more kitsch; and tunes, an impressive array of art-rock with a decidedly French lean. Both suit the art-enriched space, lined with bottles from Ian Meggitt’s discerning list.
Blancmange
1 Station Street, Petersham
Ph: (02) 9568-4644
www.restaurantblancmange.com.au
Modern European $$$$
