Becasse
Image: An arrangement of death lilies on the front desk add to the funereal ambience of high ceilings, vertical drapes and muted greys. It's hushed tones and stiff upper lips here; you’ll find yourself speaking at a whisper without even knowing why.
An arrangement of death lilies on the front desk add to the funereal ambience of high ceilings, vertical drapes and muted greys. It’s hushed tones and stiff upper lips here; you’ll find yourself speaking at a whisper without even knowing why. The circular LED bling chandeliers lighten the atmosphere and Justin North’s rosemary and garlic bread presented with crème fraîche is equally light. I’m here for a regional wine dinner for the South West of France. It’s an exceptionally well-priced way to eat at this two-hat restaurant. For the ‘bargain’ price of $110 a head you get six courses and seven wines. While not all courses blow the mind, the plating is uniformly brilliant across all dishes. Highlights are the lamb shoulder slow cooked in an Earl Grey tea salt crust with an intensely good field mushroom puree, balanced by the acidity of smoked cherry tomatoes and trickled with a tea infused lamb jus – North nails this dish. I’m also in raptures over the aromatic poached red quince with orange curd, caramel candied oranges and cubes of spice cake. Pop a salted toffee caramel petit four into your mouth and wait for the instant the salt penetrates your taste-buds – it’ll make you forgive any more muted moments.
Becasse
204 Clarence Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9283 3440 www.becasse.com.au
Modern French $$$$
