Last week I took some time out of my busy weekend to check out the much-lauded ACME. And yes, while the Macaroni, Pig’s Head, Egg Yolk ($18) is undeniably delicious, you might be left wondering: where’s the rest of it? Engaging (and universally attractive) staff do give adequate warning you’ll need three pastas between two, supplemented by three entrees, salad and probably dessert. Gnawing on a fistful of raw baby Turnips in Bottaga Butter ($12), it’s hard not to contemplate food costs – especially as a snack-sized plate boasting half a roasted Beetroot on Macadamia Butter ($14) lands, albeit accentuated by clever grated coffee bean. The winning aspect here is exploring Chef Mitch Orr’s imaginative combinations – Beef Tartare, Prawn and Burnt Onion ($24) – and Spaghetti ($24) with deftly handled calamari and Korean bolognaise. If Grilled Raddichio ($10) with taro and capers still sees you hankering for carbs, bunny and pistachio Maltagliati ($24) is their most filling pasta. Flavour-based sake descriptions belie the beauty of small batch Chiyo Shuzo ‘Moromi Nigori’ ($16/glass) – a fabulous aperitif. Follow it with Natacha Chave Aléofane Marsanne Roussanne 2014 ($82/bottle) and you’ll experience a well-rounded wine that’ll go the distance without buyer’s remorse. Foamy Coconut Rice Cream ($10) hiding a treasure trove of caramelized white chocolate, nails dessert, ensuring you leave on high.
ACME
60 Bayswater Road, Rushcutters Bay
Ph: (02) 8068 0932 weareacme.com.au
Modern Australian $$$
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